Da alcune settimane si può
già apprezzare la mostra dedicata al “genio ribelle” di Alexander Mcqueen, la
mostra chiamata “Savage Beauty” ripercorre la carriera dello stilista attraverso
gli abiti più iconici delle sue collezioni. La scelta degli abiti è stata ardua
visto che Alexander Mcqueen conta con 19 anni di sfilate e numerosi lavori ma
certamente i curatori Claire Wilcox e Andrew Bolton hanno centrato
l’obiettivo infatti hanno messo in mostra ben 100 capi dagli archivi di
Givenchy e Alexander Mcqueen.
I capi provengono da diverse collezioni come quella realizzata nel A/I 2009
chiamata “The Horn of Plently Dress” in cui gli abiti avevano colori
forti con prevalenti tonalità di rosso, bianco e nero. I capi sfilavano attorno
ad una discarica e le modelle sembravano delle figure allucinatorie e
mostruose. Un’altra collezione che creò davvero scalpore è chiamata “ VOSS”
del P/E 2001 in cui le modelle sfilavano all’interno di un cubo di vetro,
sembravano quasi racchiuse all’interno di un manicomio; le modelle con addosso
abiti strappati parevano quasi delle pazienti. La sfilata si concluse con
l’apertura di un cubo di vetro sporco, che era nel mezzo della passerella, dal
quale uscirono falene e insetti e nel quale c’era una donna sdraiata, nuda e
dalla fisionomia morbida che aveva il viso coperto da una maschera. La sfilata
era un richiamo ad una fotografia di Joel Peter Witkin.
Alexander Mcqueen non solo proponeva sfilate di vestiti ma proponeva show
che coinvolgevano i buyer e gli specialisti del settore e come lui stesso disse
“I use things that people want to hide in their heads. War, religion, sex:
things we all think about but don’t bring to the forefront. But I do and I
force them to watch it”.
La mostra è un capolavoro che
coinvolge lo spettatore e riprende la mostra già realizzata al Metropolitan
Museum di New York nel 2011.
Savage Beauty è in mostra
al Victoria & Albert Museum fino al 2 agosto, se vi capita l’occasione di
fare un giro a Londra non perdetevi questa opportunità.
For a couple of weeks,
it’s already been possible to appreciate the exhibition dedicated to the “rebel
genius” of Alexander Mcqueen. The exhibition is called “Savage
Beauty” and it retraces the carrier of the designer trough the most
iconic pieces of his collections. Chosing each piece was really difficult, considering
that Alexander Mcqueen has 19 years of runways and numerous works behind, but
the curators Claire Wilcox and Andrew Bolton managed to hit the target: as a
matter of fact, they showcased 100 pieces from Givenchy’s and Alexander
Mcqueen’s files.
The items of
clothing come from different collections, as example from the one showcased in F/W
2009, called “The Horn of Plently Dress”, where the dresses were
characterised by strong colours, mostly tonalities of red, white and black. The
pieces were modelling around a tip and it looked like the models were some
unreal and monstrous creatures. Another collection which really made a
sensation is called “VOSS”, back in S/S 2001, during
which the models walked the runway in a cube made of glass, and they looked
like they were shut in an asylum; the models, wearing ripped clothes, almost
looked like patients. The runway show ended with the opening of a dirty cube of
glass, which was inside the other cube of glass, from which insects and moths
were flying out, while a naked full-figured woman was laying there, with her
face covered by an antigas mask. The show revoked a photo of Joel
Peter Witkin.
Alexander Mcqueen
not only offered runways, but also fashion shows which truly engaged the buyers
and the specialists of the sector and as he himself once said: “I use things that people want to hide in
their heads. War, religion, sex: things we all think about but don’t bring to
the forefront. But I do and I force them to watch it”.
The exhibition is a
masterpiece which easily engages the viewer, using the exhibition previously showed
at the Metropolitan Museum of New York in 2011 as a starting point.
Savage Beauty is showed
at the Victoria & Albert Museum until the 2nd August: if you are going to
be in London, don’t lose this opportunity.
Edgar Bejar Vargas
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